A DAY IN THE LIFE

Life at home has been really fun this Summer. With more hours of light in the day, warm weather and most of my friends having time off from work, I’ve been able to fill my days with many things that I enjoy. I’ve only bodyboarded 4 times in the last 5 weeks and although bodyboarding is still priority number 1 for me in my life I feel I can have much more fun doing other things with my time when the waves are 1 foot and onshore.

I’ve been getting into climbing, gymnastics, strength training, ice baths and have even begun my journey to learn how to balance on one hand, which is all keeping me really excited and very fit, but when I don’t ride a wave in a while I start to feel something brewing inside of me that I guess would feel similar to a junkie when they’re 2 days clean.

Everyone’s addicted to something, it’s part of being human to want to continue to do the things we enjoy as much as possible. Instagram, drugs, work, sex, exercise… Luckily I find my fix simply by riding a wave and not injecting something into my veins. And what’s even luckier is that almost all of my ‘addictions’ in life are beneficial to my overall health and well-being, so I can pig out on doing all the things I love, knowing that it’s actually doing me good.

When a little swell popped up on the charts last week I felt the urge to document a full day including some of the activities that I’ve been getting up to for the last few weeks at home. I don’t know where the urge came from, it was a pretty spontaneous decision, but it ended up being a really fun day of adventures.

Having the camera rolling all day also gave an extra level of motivation to push ourselves in all the things we did on the day, which made for some good achievements and some even better slams.

So here it is… A day in the life with me and my friends. It doesn’t include all of the activities that I’ve been getting up to, but it sure does include lots of them. I was pretty tired and sore the next day, that’s for sure.

Enjoy!